Arboreal
have kicked off 2016 in style, a nod in the most recent Michelin Guide will
have cemented this restaurants place as a Cowbridge favourite while peaking the
interest of those further afield.
Set
on the main Cowbridge thoroughfare, Arboreal’s décor is the zenith of shabby
chic. Distressed floor boards double as wall cladding, muted colours of blue, green, grey and white combine to give a stylish backdrop along with the prerequisite
industrial style light fittings. As you walk through from the bar area to the dining
room the place is flooded with light from a glass roof lantern and the star of
the show is revealed, their wood burning oven on full display in the open
kitchen.
I
love open kitchens, being a bit of a cooking show addict this is the real thing
up close! I’m fascinated about the flow of service, the synchronicity of the
chefs and the communication with front of house.
On
this rainy Saturday lunch time the place was bustling and you could tell as the
staff whizzed about the place taking orders, answering questions, delivering
drinks that they well versed in dealing with busy times.
The
menu presented on black boards is a product of the fact that the menu changes
frequently to suit what ingredients are available and indeed are seasonal. It
is in turn split into day and night menus.
The
day menu comprises of flat breads with a spectrum of toppings, to sandwiches to
pizzas, pastas and main courses. The
evening menu follows a more traditional proforma of starters, mains and
desserts. We were lucky enough to try a bit from both menus thanks to the
helpful manager on duty.
The
starters that took our fancy were the pan fried scallops with fennel and orange
(£10) and the Thai style free range chick skewers (£7).
Three plump scallops with caramelised edges were topped with sliced and sautéed fennel and orange segments. Beautiful to look at and to eat. The scallops were perfectly cooked, a light aniseed flavour and crunch from the fennel followed by the juice of the orange to cut through it all. Lovely, if a little light on the seasoning.
The Thai style skewers were a little underwhelming. Well known satay style flavour but no real punch to them.
Our mains comprised of a lamb and pomegranate pizza (£16.50) and pan fried salmon on a noodle broth, with noodles, ginger and coriander (£16).
Three plump scallops with caramelised edges were topped with sliced and sautéed fennel and orange segments. Beautiful to look at and to eat. The scallops were perfectly cooked, a light aniseed flavour and crunch from the fennel followed by the juice of the orange to cut through it all. Lovely, if a little light on the seasoning.
The Thai style skewers were a little underwhelming. Well known satay style flavour but no real punch to them.
Our mains comprised of a lamb and pomegranate pizza (£16.50) and pan fried salmon on a noodle broth, with noodles, ginger and coriander (£16).
The
salmon arrived sitting proud and crisp upon a mound of glass noodles flecked
with spring onion and spinach. The fish itself was cooked well, super crispy
skin and flaky flesh. The noodles and broth however were bland, no real chilli
or ginger kick or coriander to mention it. Just a back ground flavour of soy
sauce. Also it proved rather tricky to eat, every time you pressed down to cut
into the salmon it disappeared beneath a mound of noodles which threatened to
tip over the sides.
The
pizza however was a feast for the eyes! Chunks of slow cooked lamb shoulder,
cooked in their wood oven over night then shredded and dispersed across a
cheese and tomato base, dressed with mint yoghurt and a generous scattering of pomegranate.
The pizza base was crisp and light, the lamb was full of meaty flavour and the
pomegranate providing crunch and juice to cut though the cheese. Winner. However
yoghurt on a hot pizza does not do it for me.
To
finish we went for the chocolate fondant to share (£5.50). I don’t need write
anything here just look at the photo! Perfect, sublime, nailed it. The vanilla
ice cream from Joe’s ice cream made the ideal partner. Sharing was a massive
error.
To
drink we had a couple of soft drinks (£2.75 each) and a small glass of house
Sauvignon Blanc (£4.95) which was crisp, light and refreshing.
Service
was attentive, efficient, and friendly and really is one of their strengths. A
warm welcome as soon as you set foot into the place sets the tone. As the food
is cooked to order they warn of at least a 15 minute wait for your food and in
busy periods a bit longer. Also the portion sizes are to be commended. You can
tell the quality of the ingredients is not skimped on either. There is a slight
hint of style and look over substance as the food in terms of flavour and
seasoning could have delivered more.
I loved the atmosphere here and as the lunch
time rush died down the vibe was lovely. Cosy from the warmth of the wood burning
oven, chilled tunes over the speakers and the hubbub of people chatting while
eating and drinking. I could have easily stayed until dinner.
I
enjoyed my visit to Arboreal and am now more in awe of anyone who embarks on
their own restaurant and of the chefs in the kitchen. It literally is case of spinning
several plates all at the same time and for the most part Arboreal do it well.
All food was complimentary
but this did not influence the review.
Arboreal
Address: 68 Eastgate Street. Cowbridge, CF71 7AB
Tel: 01446 775093
Web: www.arboreal.uk.com
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